Recently I backpacked in the North Fork John Day Wilderness along the North Fork John Day River Trail deep in Oregon’s Blue Mountain gold rush country.  The 25 mile-long trail follows the John Day River downstream through a rimrock canyon featuring forests of Douglas Fir and lodgepole pines, rocky outcrops, smooth meadows, and decaying log cabins of Oregon’s gold rush pioneers.  The North Fork John Day drainage was a bustling gold and silver mining area in the middle to late 1800s. Old mines, log cabins, water-worn rock, dredged ditches, and other traces are still visible of people who mined an estimated $10 million in gold and silver in the early days of Oregon.

The North Fork John Day Wilderness was established by the Oregon Wilderness Act of 1984 and is comprised of 121,800 acres.  A 39 mile segment of the North Fork John Day River has been designated as a Wild and Scenic River.  The river is “Wild” meaning it is undammed along its entire length and is the third longest free-flowing river in the lower 48 of the United States.  The area’s fish population includes large numbers of Chinook salmon and steelhead, with runs that peak in August.  This area is well known for big-game animals, which currently include a herd of Rocky Mountain elk estimated to number beyond 50,000 and a herd of mule deer that reportedly exceeds 150,000.  The wilderness also has its fair share of black bears and mountain lions and in the fall, the North Fork John Day River Trail is a prime trail for big-game hunters.

Hikers can access roughly 133 miles of trails, three of which, Elkhorn Crest, Winom Creek, and North Fork John Day, are National Recreation Trails.  Interested in a scenic tour of the wilderness along the John Day River, I planned an overnight backpacking trip with my friend Spencer.  We planned to start at the North Fork John Day Campground which is located southeast of Ukiah, Oregon and 9 miles north of the small town of Granite, Oregon.  The campground is the trailhead location for the North Fork John Day River Trail #3022 which runs 25 miles down the river.  We planned to hike roughly 6 miles downstream to find a nice place to camp along the river and return back along the trail to the trailhead the following morning. 

We set off from the trailhead which is at an elevation of 5200 feet, and after just 200 yards through a wet meadow we turned right to cross a wooden footbridge across Trail Creek.  From here, the North Fork John Day River Trail #3022 follows the river deep into the wilderness.  The trail shared by hikers and horses, is well defined, is narrow in places, and certainly is a rugged and rocky trail.  It is easy to follow however, since the river is usually in sight.  We hiked through tall Douglas Fir a fair portion of the way and stopped to look back on the views of the river upstream.  Early into the hike we came across old miner’s cabins along the trail.  There are short paths up to the cabins and you can explore them.  I would say we saw approximately 5 of these cabins scattered along the trail.  A couple of them could make for a decent day use or overnight shelter, while the rest were very well dilapidated, although still standing.  Along the way we saw a couple of signs posted on the tall pines noting the names of some mining claims from the past. 

After 2.6 miles from the trailhead we reached an old prospector’s cabin called Home Mine.  This cabin is open for public use if you should choose.  Nicknamed the “Bigfoot Hilton”, it is the cabin featured in William L. Sullivan’s adventure narrative, Listening For Coyote.  William L. Sullivan has explored Oregon throughout and written many hiking guides, most of which I own and use as part of my research for finding top destinations in Oregon to hike and photograph.  Unfortunately, although the Bigfoot Hilton has a celebrated history, its better days have long past.  There is an old wood stove, and some metal framed bunk beds you can put your pad and sleeping bag on.  Although you could spend the night there, judging the place by the piles of rat droppings, I would rather sleep outside.

From here, the Bigfoot Hilton makes for a good turnaround point for a short day trip and a 5.2 mile roundtrip hike.  Or if you carry on, you enter deeper into the wilderness and in my opinion the scenery becomes far more beautiful.  We decided to carry on as planned and crossed Trout Creek which flows right behind the Bigfoot Hilton.  To cross Trout Creek, you have two options: to wade the creek and get wet, or to cross the creek by very carefully walking across two unstable logs laid over the creek.  It wasn’t tough crossing the logs, but if we did slip we would have fallen approximately 12 feet into the creek.

At this point, we planned on hiking no more than 4 more miles along the trail and to find a perfect place to camp along the way.  I knew that if we reached the point where the John Day River met the Crane Creek Trail junction, we would have traveled those 4 miles.  So from the Bigfoot Hilton, we set off along the trail to where the John Day River meets Crane Creek.  The trail passed through a couple of meadows and the views opened up tremendously.  The trail diverged away from the John Day River at points and gained a little bit in elevation.  As a result, the few hundred feet in elevation gain had opened up our view and made for some great opportunities to photograph the river and the rimrock canyon gorge.  Fortunately at this time too, a day which had been mostly cloudy brightened up and this added light lit up the canyon and enhanced not only our views but warmed up our day too.  My map noted that after approximately 3 miles, we would be in the vicinity of the Thornburg Mine.  I have to say that although I kept looking for the mine, I am not sure I truly saw it.  We did reach a spot along the trail where on the right side there were piles of old quarried rocks discarded into piles, and I believe at this point is where the mine may be located and possibly the entrance is obscured for safety reasons.  A quarter of a mile after this point we reached a short couple of switchbacks along the trail and climbed in elevation a little bit before the trail quickly took us back down near the banks of the river.  At this point, we figured we went nearly 4 miles and spotted a prime camp spot along the river.  The area was flat and opened up with a few scattered trees, meadow grasses filled with Columbine flowers, and plenty of dry firewood around.  It looked like the perfect place to spend the rest of our afternoon and evening.

We set up our camp with our tents a few feet from the riverbank and explored the surrounding area a bit.  I saw a few bear tracks close to our camp and although it was not alarming, it did add to my heightened sense of awareness that we were in a wilderness and wild animals abound.  Spencer built a nice-sized fire and I boiled up some water on my backpacking stove to make some Lasagna with red meat sauce for dinner.  We also enjoyed a few Seagrams 7 and Cokes, chilled in the river.  During the day the temperature was in the 60s and by 11:00 PM it had dropped to 40 degrees.  It was a perfect evening; as there was not a cloud in the sky or any breeze whatsoever.  When we woke early in the morning, the temperature was 28 degrees, it was snowing, and there was nearly half of an inch of snow blanketing the ground.  We waited a bit in our tents to see if the snow would stop, and when it appeared it would continue indefinitely, we decided to pack up our camp. The river had swollen an additional few feet overnight and it was moving even faster than it had been the day before.  It was a good thing that we did not have to cross the river as it was clearly out of the question.  With our tents and gear frozen wet, we headed back on the trail.   Roughly 15 feet of the trail apparently had washed away down a cliff and into the river below making that part of the trail impassable.  So we scrambled a few feet above the slide to get to point where the trail did not wash away.  We carried on the trail and now were extremely wet as we were sloshing through melting snow and reached once again, the log bridge to cross Trout Creek near the Bigfoot Hilton.  With the two logs wet and covered with snow, we did not wish to cross the logs; so we instead crossed the small creek which now was knee-deep and icy cold.  We tried to dry off a bit at the Hilton and made our way back the 2.6 miles to our car at the trailhead.  What went from perfect weather to near imperfect weather only heightened our experience and showed us that we truly were in a wild wilderness. 

After seeing quite a bit of Oregon now, I would highly recommend the North Fork John Day Wilderness as a top destination in Oregon for hiking and photography.  The wilderness is rugged and pure, with wildflowers and wildlife.  Not likely to be crowded, you can find your solitude and with many miles of trails, plan your own adventure. 

To note:  It is possible to create a loop out of this trip, rather than returning the same way we came.  After 6.6 miles the John Day River meets up with Crane Creek and at the trail junction you can ford the John Day River and then hike 4.1 miles along the Crane Creek Trail to the Crane Creek Trailhead.  Then from the trailhead, hike 2.6 miles on the North Crane Trail back to your car at the North Fork John Day River Trailhead.  However, to make this loop, you have to cross the John Day River as mentioned.  In late summer, the river is reportedly knee-deep.  Being mid-June and with some rain and snow, the river was far too deep and fast for us to cross safely.  So we knew ahead of time that we would not be making the loop trip.  You can judge your ability to cross the river at the beginning of your trip, since you can see the river close to the trailhead and it is the same river you cross 6.6 miles downstream.

To Get There:

From Portland, take Highway 84 to La Grande.  Continue on Highway 84 for 24 miles and take the North Powder Exit 285.  Follow the “Anthony Lakes” signs 21 paved miles to the Anthony Lake area.  Continue on Road 73 for another 17 paved miles to a four-way junction.  Here Road 73 meets Road 52 and you can see the entrance for the North Fork John Day Campground.  There are primitive tent sites, no water, an outhouse style bathroom, and parking for trailers and horses.  Drive through the campground to the end where you see parking for the North Fork John Day River Trailhead.  A registration book and regulations are posted at the trailhead.  A Northwest Forest Pass is required for parking.

Recently I hiked to Elowah Falls and Upper McCord Creek Falls in the Columbia River Gorge to photograph the waterfalls. I feel that both of these waterfalls are hidden gems as I have visited many of the falls in the area and these two stand out as favorites. In visiting both falls, my roundtrip hiking distance was 3 miles with some parts of the trail fairly steep, yet overall, it was a very comfortable hike and one that I will remember for its beauty.

Elowah Falls is the first waterfall along the trail and is the better one to photograph; since the trail takes you right up to the fall’s large punchbowl and the area is wide open to explore and find the perfect vantage point to shoot from. On a warm day, the area surrounding the falls would be an ideal destination for a picnic. The cliffs on both sides of Elowah Falls form a stone-like amphitheater around the waterfall and are flanked with brightly colored green-yellow lichen which add interest to the scene. I found that with the magnitude of water pouring from the waterfall, as well as the constant spray, taking photos near the punchbowl was not going to yield any pleasant shots, so I hiked back down the trail and scrambled down to McCord Creek to take shots from the creek and looking up towards Elowah Falls. Here I found a couple of prized vantage spots and spent the next couple of hours taking photos intermittingly testing various shutter speed and my graduated neutral density filter.

Pleased with my experience at Elowah Falls and hopeful that I got a good shot, I hiked back up along the trail I came to the sign which gave the short distance to Upper McCord Creek Falls. After a few minutes of hiking, I was very surprised to see that the trail continues through steep solid rock as the trail makers must have blasted out the rock to create a ledge that continued for a couple hundred feet. At this point it was very steep with water dripping on me from the rock ceiling. There are a couple of good vantage points to take photographs of the Columbia River from this point and there is a metal railing to keep you safe, as the drop is a straight one down countless feet.

I reached the viewpoint to Upper McCord Creek Falls where I was shocked to see the size and magnitude of the waterfall. I took a few photographs of the falls and then continued shortly up the trail to where the trail ends. At this point, you are above the falls and next to McCord Creek. I really did not find a very good vantage point from which to shoot the falls as the trail does not take you down the base of the falls. Rather, the view is from a distance looking slightly down and I would be hard pressed to find a unique shot of the waterfall. I did take, however, a picture of Upper McCord Creek from above the falls and I like this photograph because it captures the movement of the creek yet the colorful creek bottom is entirely in view. I like the simplicity of the photo as the image has no true subject; just capturing the smooth flow of the water is what I was after.

I recommend the short trip to Elowah Falls and Upper McCord Creek Falls as both a top destination in Oregon to photograph but also as one to hike and explore. The varying scenery and trail make it an interesting and fun hike with just the right amount of distance and elevation gain. Both falls make for a perfect family hike too.

To Get There:

Drive east from Portland on Interstate 84 and take the Dodson exit (exit 37). Just after exiting the highway, turn left and take a frontage road for 2 miles to John B. Yeon State Park. The trailhead is 37 miles east of Portland. Be careful as this State Park is just a few parking spaces right alongside the road and there are numerous car break-ins in this area.

Recently I snow shoed in Washington’s Mount Rainier National Park to Reflection Lakes. Mount Rainier National Park is well known for its dense forests, waterfalls, wildflower meadows, and of course its vast snow fields and icy glaciers. The mountain, at 14,410 feet, is the highest peak in the Cascade Range and from various regions of the park you can see four other Cascade volcanoes: Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Baker, and Glacier Peak. Outdoor activities are endless, with opportunities for scenic driving, bicycling, hiking, backpacking, and mountain climbing. The most prominent hiking trail is the 93-mile Wonderland Trail which circles Mount Rainier and offers the most diverse scenery as it traverses many ridges and valleys throughout the park and takes you though lowland forests to subalpine meadows.

Offering recreation all-year, winter camping is allowed almost anywhere in the park as long as snow depth has reached 5’ at Paradise and 2’ elsewhere in the park. My friend Christian and I thought that a 5-mile roundtrip snow shoe to Reflection Lakes and an overnight camp at the lake was a good choice as I have read that a trek to Reflection Lakes & Louise Lakes is a quintessential Mt. Rainier snowshoeing experience. Reflection Lakes received its name from a near full reflection of Mt. Rainier and has become one of the most photographed locations in the park. As the lake freezes over in the winter months, you will not see the reflection, but rather a view of the beautiful frozen lake frozen covered with snow. Always up for a good snow camping adventure, we headed out to Mount Rainier with the goal of spending the night at Reflection Lakes.

In winter the only two park entrances open are the Nisqually Entrance, in the southwest corner of the park, and the Carbon River Entrance, in the northwest corner of the park. Driving from Portland, we entered through the Nisqually Entrance on Highway 706 and drove the plowed yet icy road to Paradise and checked in at the Jackson Visitor Center for our backcountry permit. After signing in and checking our gear, we headed from the overnight parking lot to the orange and black poles marking the trail to Reflection Lakes. At this point we had the option of shoeing down on the Narada Falls trail or taking the longer way by staying on the Paradise Valley Route which during winter months is a primary avalanche danger area. With the avalanche forecast low, we continued on the Paradise Valley Route for 1.8 miles until we reached pole markers for the way up to Inspiration Saddle. The 1.8 miles to this junction was easy since it was moderately downhill in grade and a clear route to follow. The 0.3 mile up to Inspiration Saddle was significantly more strenuous since it was steep, switch backed a few times, and with our 45-pound packs on our backs, they took their toll. Once we reached Inspiration Saddle and took in an expansive view of Mount Rainer, we reached the markers leading the 0.4 miles down to Reflection Lakes. This part of the trail descends greatly and was a nice reprieve.

Once we were near Reflection Lakes we had a clear view of the surrounding area and made our own trail a few hundred feet from the lake and set up our camp between a snow bank and a few large trees to offer some protection from the possible wind whipping off of the lake meadow. After setting up our tents, it was getting late in the afternoon, approximately 4:30 PM, and my thermometer read 21 degrees. After a snack on some peanuts and a couple of bottles of Deschutes Black Butte and Jubelale, I shoed a little bit around the lake to take some photographs. Initially, I was disappointed with the current weather as the light was not right and clouds were rolling in and obscuring the tip of Pinnacle Peak. Finally, as the sun went down, the clouds parted and unveiled Pinnacle Peak with a violet glow and I was able to take a decent shot (see photo).

After coming back to our base camp, my friend and I dug a couple of snow lawn chairs, lit the Duraflame logs we carried on our backs and made dinner while listening to music as we had brought some battery powered speakers and an iPod Nano. We ate lasagna with red meat sauce, drank some Jim Beam, and at around 8:30 called it a night. Before I went to bed it was 18 degrees out, but absolutely zero wind, and I was quite warm with all my gear and my bag. Around Midnight we heard quite a bit of noise at our camp and something was walking around inspecting our tents. It was very loud; my tent moved (twice) and I lay there motionless until whatever came to visit apparently lost interest with us after a few very long minutes.

Safe and sound, I woke up around 7:30 AM and put on my frozen boots, packed up my gear and waste, and helped my friend tidy up our camp before we headed back on the trail. We made it back to the junction with the Paradise Valley Route. Instead of taking this same route to our car, we decided to take the Narada Falls trail which was noted by another set of orange and black poles in the snow. This trail was certainly a much more scenic route and also shorter at 0.60 miles. However, it was very steep and on portions of the journey it felt like I was climbing rather than shoeing. Thankfully, the distance was short and overall it was a rewarding workout. We made it back to the parking lot and warmed up for a bit at the visitor center and then drove home to Portland.

Mount Rainier National Park opened up my eyes to all of the outdoor hiking and photography opportunities in Washington. I was impressed by the beauty of the mountain and the pristine nature of the surrounding trails. My snow show trip to Reflection Lakes lives up to the recommendations I have read and I am pleased to add my own experience for fellow outdoors enthusiasts to read; I encourage you to make your own adventure.

To Get There:

The park is 150 miles from Portland and is easy to find due to the frequent signs to Mount Rainier National Park. From Portland, take Interstate 5 to Highway 12. From the town of Morton, take Highway 7 to the town of Elbe and take Highway 706 to the Nisqually Entrance and follow the road to Paradise.

Be sure to visit the National Park Service website for Mount Rainier National Park to read and understand the park’s regulations, guidelines, and current road status and weather. Many of the trails we were on to reach Reflection Lakes were not marked with signs naming the trail and at times, made route finding difficult.

Recently I snow camped at Crater Lake National Park in Southern Oregon.  Crater Lake is well-known for its intense and pristine blue color and spectacular views in the summer.  In the winter months, the lake is typically socked in with fog and snow as Crater Lake National Park receives an average of 44 feet of snow every year.  This was my first visit to Crater Lake and my friend Christian and I thought a snowshoeing and overnight camping trip would be a memorable adventure a few days before Christmas.  

Due to the substantial snow pack in the winter months, most of the park facilities close for the snow season.  However, plenty remain open for snow enthusiasts to enjoy cross-country skiing and snowshoe hikes.  Due to the snow, Rim Drive which is a 33-mile road around the lake, closes early in the season which creates an ideal unplowed trail for skiers and snowshoers.  As winter can be a challenging time with blizzards, avalanches, and icy slopes; all backcountry campers must register at the park’s Visitor Center for a free permit before camping. 

We decided to make the drive from Portland to the small town of Shady Cove to spend the night in a motel and wake up early the next day and drive the remaining hour to the park.  We drove on snow packed roads with four-wheel drive to the Visitor Center where a very friendly Ranger went over our planned trip with us and filled out our camping permit.  We planned to shoe from the Rim Village parking lot 1.1 miles to Discovery Point and set up camp.  The Ranger told us that we would be the only ones snow camping at Crater Lake that night and that the forecast was for temperatures in the low 20s with 12 inches of snow.  He warned that due to the expected snow, the gate to the road up to Rim Village may be closed and snow plows might not be able to plow the road.  If that happened, our vehicle would be stranded up at Rim Village and we would have to snowshoe the 3 miles back down to the Visitor Center for assistance.  My friend and I felt that we had the necessary gear to handle an extended stay or an extra few miles of snowshoeing if necessary and decided that we were still up for an overnighter, despite the weather warning.

As planned, we began our snowshoe at a marker of two poles in the ground, which were a couple of hundred yards down the plowed road from Rim Village.  The poles marked the completely snowed over and unplowed Rim Drive which became our winter trail.  Right from the start, this was a tough trip!  Due to the fluffy and unpacked snow, every step we took sunk us down to our knees and every once in a while I found myself waist deep in snow and had to pull myself out.  Approximately a quarter of a mile into the trip, we passed a group of 5 park personnel who were part of their Snow Patrol and were on cross-country skis.  We spoke with them for a few minutes and they thought were in for quite an adventure that night and seemed equally as enthusiastic as we were for our overnight trip.  They thanked us for making our own trail and not stomping through their previously made ski trail and wished us luck on our journey.

After about another hour of pushing and pulling ourselves through the snow, we made it to Discovery Point and scouted for a camp spot.  We decided to call our home next to a row of 12-foot pines which made a natural wind break, and underneath 3 mammoth-sized pine trees which offered some protection from the falling snow.  At this time it was getting late in the afternoon and with falling snow and deep fog, there was no view of the lake, as we were completely socked in.  However, this trip was never about the view; it was about the adventure, and after setting up our tents and lighting a fire with the Duraflame logs we carried on our backs, we felt the satisfaction we were looking for.  After getting semi-full with our dinner of freeze-dried Sweet and Sour Pork, we sat by the fire, drank some booze and finally went back to our tents once the snow really starting coming down.  Before I went to bed I noticed that my thermometer read 18 degrees and that night it really snowed hard.  With the snow and the wind, it felt like someone was shaking and beating on my tent all night long.  When I awoke, I saw that it warmed up to 28 degrees and that it did snow the 12 inches as forecasted and all of our tracks from the previous day were snowed over.  After packing up our wet and frozen tents and gear, we started back on Rim Drive and made our way back to the parking lot where we saw that the road had indeed been plowed.  Thankful we didn’t have to make the 3 mile trek back to the Visitor Center, we drove down instead and checked back in with the Ranger to let him know that we made it back safely. 

The night we spent at Crater Lake was the same night the state of Oregon was pummeled with a severely cold arctic blast which covered the state in snow and ice.  In the Portland area, this storm accounted for making this December of 2008 the snowiest month since January 1950.  Needless to say our drive back to Portland was very slow and icy.  We experienced 7 degrees and freezing rain in Bend and had to maneuver around stuck semi-trucks going up the Santiam Pass on Highway 22.  When we made it to Salem, we were going 15-35 miles on I-5 the whole way back to Portland due to treacherous conditions.  Fortunately, despite the bad weather, we made it back safely to Portland and have that memorable snow camping adventure that we were after.  The trip certainly exceeded my expectations because it is not every day you can have a National Park all to yourself.  The scenery was amazing because of the snow covered trees and the smooth undisturbed trails blanketed with snow.  Needless to say, Crater Lake is a top hiking and photography destination in Oregon.  Due to the snow and fog, I was only able to take some snapshots to remember the trip and look forward to clear weather and the photographs ahead.  I plan to come back to Crater Lake in the summer months to photograph the blue lake and capture some of those classic shots I have in my mind when I think of Crater Lake. 

To Get There:

During the winter months, the only road open to Crater Lake National Park is the southern entrance up to Rim Village.  From Medford take Route 62 north and east to the park’s west entrance.  From Klamath Falls take Route 97 north to route 62 north and west to the park’s south entrance.  From Portland, the drive is 275 miles to Medford and then an additional 77 miles to Crater Lake.  Be sure to visit the National Park Service website for the rules and regulations regarding winter backcountry use in Crater Lake National Park.  The rules are very simple and they help to keep you safe.

Recently I backpacked through Hells Canyon in the remote northeast corner of Oregon.  The Hells Canyon National Recreation Area is part of the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest and is between the borders of northeastern Oregon and western Idaho.  The area encompasses 652,488 scenic acres and over 900 miles of trails.  In its deepest part, Hells Canyon drops 8,000 to the Snake River, making it the deepest river gorge in North America.  After some research, I chose the destination of Bear Mountain, which offered a rather short hike and some of the greatest and most expansive views of Hells Canyon.

My trip began with a 360 mile drive from Portland to the extremely small town of Imnaha in Oregon.  From Imnaha, I drove 17 miles east on Hat Point Road (Forest Road 4240) to the Summit Ridge Trailhead.  As it was late, I decided to spend the night at the trailhead which offered a great view and a nice place to camp.  Being early October, the weather was unpredictable and the forecast called for thunderstorms and lows in the 30s.  That evening a wind storm barreled through the canyon which sounded like a freight train and rocked me back and forth in my tent all night long.  In the morning, the sun broke, and with scattered showers I hiked approximately 6 miles to the summit ridge behind Bear Mountain.  The hike begins on the Summit Ridge Trail #1774 with a pointer towards Freezeout Saddle. The trail soon dropped 1,000 feet over a span of two miles.   A mile into the hike you can get a clear view of Bear Mountain.  At one point while facing Bear Mountain there is a clear view on your left of the Seven Devils Mountains on the Idaho side of the area.   Eventually the trail levels out and you are at the base of Bear Mountain.  At this point there is a sign post with markers to a 9 mile hike down to the Snake River and another marker to the Freezeout Trailhead, which is 2 miles.  However, there is no sign marking that you are in front of Bear Mountain or that continuing straight takes you around the mountain.  Just continue straight along the Summit Ridge Trail #1774.  This trail will climb and wrap around the side of the mountain. 

From the base of Bear Mountain I continued on for 4 miles and wrapped around the mountain and then was hiking along a ridge.  When the ridge opened up, I had a spectacular view of Hells Canyon below and decided to scramble a few yards off trail and set up my tent.  Immediately after taking my gear out of my bag, a fierce sleet storm dumped sleet and rain for 30 minutes and soaked all of my gear while I was struggling to put up my tent in the wind, rain, and cold.  Fortunately, I had an extra pair of dry and warm clothes and I was able to warm up a bit and started a fire.  I enjoyed the views and a hearty portion of Kung Pao Chicken and sat by the warm fire until 8:30 pm when lightning and thunder began to strike right above me without warning.  Knowing that I was not the highest point on the ridge and not near any large trees, I felt semi-safe however, when it began to pour buckets, it was an early night in my tent as there was no way that anyone could sit out in that fierce of a rain storm.  Later that night, after my tent was smacked around in the wind and rain, it began to snow.  When I woke early that morning, half an inch of snow blanketed the area and the thermometer on my pack said it was 28 degrees.  After packing up my wet and frozen gear, I hiked the 6 miles back to the trailhead and warmed up in the car.

I would say that being late in the season (as the place does shut down early November), there were very few others backpacking in the canyon.  Hunting season recently opened and there were a few hunters in the area however.  Hells Canyon must be one of the most remote places in the Pacific Northwest you can dare to venture in.  The canyon is spectacular and lives up to its grandeur as being the deepest river gorge in North America.  I only saw a small glimpse of the area while on my trip, but I could see that the canyon went on for miles.  This is certainly a place I plan to explore further next summer, especially the famed Seven Devils.  I would recommend Hells Canyon as a top hiking destination in Oregon and since the area is so vast, you truly can pick any adventure you like and make it your own.  With its mountain vistas and steep canyon drops, Hells Canyon is prime for landscape photographers looking for dramatic skies and unrestrained views.

To Get There:

From Joseph, Oregon drive 30 miles northeast on Oregon 350 to the small town of Imnaha, Oregon.  From Imnaha take Hat Point Road (Forest Road 4240) which is a steep gravel road that is well-maintained for 17 miles to the Summit Ridge trailhead. There is a sign noting the Summit Ridge trailhead and mile post markers noting the miles traveled.

Certainly four-wheel drive vehicles are recommended, however, a passenger car could make it to the trailhead, although, 17 miles on a gravel road would take its toll on your passenger car. There is no water at the trailhead, and no water along the hike to Bear Mountain.  There is no gasoline in Imnaha and the nearest gas station is in Joseph which is 30 miles away so be sure to gas up. The Imnaha Tavern & Store has pretty decent food and some basic supplies. The burger was great, but I passed on the frog legs and chicken gizzards.

Recently I hiked in the Aldrich Mountains outside of John Day in Eastern Oregon.  The Aldrich Mountains are part of the larger Blue Mountains range.  They are named after Oliver Aldrich, a pioneer who was killed by Native Americans in the Bannock War of 1878, on a nearby mountain which now bears his name.

Sunrise on the John Day River

After doing some research on where to hike in the Aldrich Mountains, I planned a day hike to Fields Peak and Moore Mountain. 

Fields Peak, a former fire lookout spot, at an elevation of 7,362 feet is the highest point in Oregon between Strawberry Mountain and the Cascades.  Being the highest point in the Aldrich Mountains, it offers fantastic panoramic views of the John Day Valley to the North and the Steens Mountains to the South.  Fields Peak and the greater surrounding area is part of the Malheur National Forest but is an undesignated wilderness area.  

On this trip, I hiked with my friend Christian, and our hike began at the McClellan Mountain Trailhead for a steady 2.3 mile climb to the summit of Fields Peak which gains just slightly over 1,800 feet in elevation.  From Fields Peak however, you can hike the nearby peaks of Moore Mountain, Moon Mountain, McClellan Mountain, and Riley Mountain.  This would make for a fairly long but not too strenuous day of peakbagging and taking in the expansive views.

  From atop Moore Mountain

For our trip, we decided to start at the McClellan Mountain Trailhead and hike west up the trail to Fields Peak.   The first half of the trail is easy to follow since it is used by horses and ATVs.  After approximately 2 miles we reached a junction where we could continue going straight along the trail to Fields Peak or veer right and head over to Moore Mountain.  At this exact point there is a wooden sign post with no name and nothing tacked to it.  We opted for veering right and hiked less than a quarter of a mile to a wooden sign noting we were standing before Moore Mountain. 

From the Moore Mountain sign we continued along the forested trail for approximately another quarter of a mile where we reached the backside of Moore and decided from this point to scramble up to the top.   Moore Mountain at 7,060 feet is essentially a big smooth bump and is not really what you would think of as a “mountain.”  So it is a fun peak to climb because it is completely visible for much of the hike and depending on your physical abilities there is probably no wrong way to scramble up the few hundred feet to the top.  It is not very steep in grade and route finding is easy since it is well above the tree line. 

Fields Peak from Moore Mt.  

After a short break, some photographs, and marveling over the 360 degree views, we made our own trail down the mountain and headed over to Fields Peak from which you can easily spot from the summit of Moore.  From Fields Peak we continued down our original trail and made our way back to the McClellan Mountain Trailhead.

From the trailhead we drove back down the way we came to Billy Fields Campground on Fields Creek Road.  This campground is certainly worth mentioning as it was one of the cleanest and most comfortable campsites I have experienced.  There is no fee to use this campground and there are approximately 6-8 campsites with room for your car and tent.  They each have a fire pit and grill, along with a picnic table.  There is a remarkably clean and new outhouse as well.  Fields Creek runs along the backside of the campground just a few yards away from the camp sites.  It is not much of a picturesque creek as there is a lot of wild brush and trees obscuring most of it, but the ice cold running water is definitely nice to clean up a bit and cool off from the 100 degree heat.

At the time we were there, my friend and I were the only hikers in the area.  However, there was a hunting party with ATVs and horses.  Apparently this is prime hunting territory and Bighorn sheep are in the area as we were close to the Murderers Creek Wildlife Area.  We met a fellow whose 14-year old son drew one of only two Bighorn sheep tags in the state of Oregon.  They, along with a wildlife biologist, picked out a sheep, took him down, and were then spending 6 hours late into the evening hauling the 400 pound sheep down the trail with the help of their horses.  Apparently these hunters were spotting us all day too, as they told us we were in their spotting scopes and they were worried we would scare the sheep away.  I am not much for hunting but we enjoyed talking to them and it made for an interesting story and added to our adventure. 

I would recommend this area as a top hiking and backpacking destination in Oregon because the scenery is unique and interesting due to the varied terrain and geological formations.  In  a relative short distance you go through pine trees, open grass fields, and small scrub and wildflowers; and then it is up a small scramble of one of the many peaks for breathtaking 360-degree views.   Due to the views and the abundant wildlife there is no shortage of opportunities to take photographs.  I can imagine the shots to be had on a day with picturesque white clouds or a thunderstorm approaching.  The drive to Dayville takes you through one of the most scenic Oregon Byways as it meanders through the John Day Fossil Beds.  There are also many scattered old homesteads and barns in the area which are a favorite of mine to photograph.  This is rugged pioneer country and epitomizes what I think of Eastern Oregon.   

To Get There:

From Portland, take Highway 26 east to approximately 13 miles outside of Dayville.  Turn south on Fields Creek Road.  Continue along this well-paved road approximately 8 miles to a sign for Fields Peak and Road 115 where now the road becomes gravel/dirt.  Turn left on this road and go about a quarter of a mile to a “T” in the road.  Now turn right on Road 2160 for 100 yards and then turn left on Road 41.  The road becomes fairly steep and rough so 4-wheel drive is recommended.

Continue along the road for less than a mile until you reach the end of the road.  From here there is a wooden sign which reads “McClellan Trail.”  There is a turnaround and room for cars and horse trailers.  The trailhead sign had nothing posted on it when we were there noting the trails or which direction to go.  While facing the sign, on your right is the trail to McClellan Mountain.  To your left is the trail to Fields Peak which is what we took.  There is plenty of space to find your own camp spot in the surrounding area at the trailhead.  There is no water available so be sure to bring your own supplies and check the weather forecast.

This week I did a three-day backpacking trip with my brother in the majestic Eagle Cap Wilderness of Northeastern Oregon outside of the town of Joseph, Oregon. The hike began at the Wallowa Lake Trailhead and continued to Horseshoe Lake and Moccasin Lake in the Lake Basin region for a total of 28 miles hiked with our 40-pound backpacks.

     Horseshoe Lake at Sunset 

The Eagle Cap Wilderness lies in the heart of the Wallow Mountains in the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest and totals an amazing 350,461 acres of wilderness. The Eagle Cap Wilderness is known for its high alpine lakes and granite peaks and ridges. The 6th highest peak in Oregon, Sacajawea Peak at 9838 feet is home here. According to the US Forest Service, hikers can choose from approximately 534 miles of trails in the Eagle Cap. Trailheads are located on all sides of the wilderness, with access from the counties of Wallowa, Union, and Baker. Due to heavy winter snowfall, the area typically does not open until late summer and fall.

The most popular area in the Eagle Cap Wilderness is the Lakes Basin Management Area and this is where we were headed on our hike as it offers the most spectacular views of the scenic alpine lakes and granite peaks. The Lakes basin is home to numerous alpine lakes such as Horseshoe, Unit, Lily, Razz, Lee, Douglas, Crescent, Moccasin, Mirror, Sunshine, Pocket, and Glacier. With all of them known for their beauty, we chose the destinations of Horseshoe Lake and Moccasin Lake for our hiking trip.

The hike to Horseshoe Lake started at the Wallowa Lake Trailhead on the West Fork Wallowa River Trail #1820. The trail begins at the right of the trailhead message board starting at an elevation of 4645 feet and climbs steadily 905 feet for 2.8 miles where you reach the junction to the trail for Ice Lake (I have a photo gallery of Ice Lake at Oregon Foto). At this point you can head up to Ice Lake for another 4.7 miles and 2300 foot gain or just continue on the main West Fork Wallowa River Trail for another 3.3 miles and 490 foot gain until you reach the aptly named Six Mile Meadow at an elevation of 6040 feet. So far you will have traveled 6.1 miles over a very modest gain of 1300 feet. These 6.1 miles cover a rather rough and rocky terrain. Also, you need to maneuver around countless piles of horse crap as these trails are also traveled by people who would prefer to use horses where others prefer to use their own feet.

So far we traveled 6.1 miles from the Wallowa Lake Trailhead to Six Mile Meadow and have another 3.1 miles and an elevation of gain of 1095 feet before reaching Horseshoe Lake. At the junction for Six Mile Meadow you are now on trail #1810. At Six Mile Meadow, it gets a little bit tricky. At two points you cross the West Fork Wallowa River, however both hiker footbridges are washed out (one sign said the bridge was out since 6/24/05) and there are a couple of logs across the river that you need to gracefully and carefully use to cross the river. It isn’t a big deal, but we did need to stop and think about where and how to make the crossing. Once you cross the second point of the river, you can easily pick up the trail again and continue through the meadow a short distance where you will now begin to climb up the trail to reach Horseshoe Lake, which at this point, is approximately 3 miles up and a few switchbacks away. The trail is very rough and rocky and as it was early in the season we had approximately 10 trees which had fallen across the trail and we had to climb over and with a 40-pound pack, this does take its toll on you. Once you are done climbing up the trail you can finally catch a glimpse of Horseshoe Lake and near here you will reach a junction. To the right, trail #1810 (which you have been on) veers to the right where you can bypass Horseshoe Lake and head to Unit Lake or Razz Lake. However, if you want to continue to Horseshoe Lake, veer left (you will be on trail #1821 now) and after about a quarter of a mile of hiking along the right side of the lake you can select the perfect campsite and finally relax and enjoy the views at 7135 feet. It took us approximately 6 hours to hike the 9.1 miles up to Horseshoe Lake, including a couple of breathers and lunch.

After an evening of battling the countless mosquitoes and watching the fish jump, we woke up the next day and decided to take a day hike to Moccasin Lake which is 3.3 miles from Horseshoe Lake and takes you through the beauty of the Lakes Basin. From Horseshoe Lake, you can easily pick up the main trail again where in a short distance you reach Lee Lake which is in on your left. As you continue along the trail you begin to climb up steadily rocky terrain for 1.3 miles where you reach another junction. At this point you can veer right and take trail #1810 to the back-side of Douglas Lake and then further on to Crescent Lake, or you can veer left like we did and hike along Douglas Lake on trail #1810A for another 2 miles until you reach Moccasin Lake.

Moccasin Lake, at 7475 feet, represents the beauty of when I think of a high elevation alpine lake. It is a gorgeous lake and for a photographer, it has all the aspects one could want, high snow-capped peaks, clear blue water, and abundant vegetation and wildlife. The water is pristine and the lake is surrounded by majestic granite peaks including a close-up view of the namesake of the area, Eagle Cap. At a junction beside Moccasin Lake, you can turn left across a scenic isthmus between the lakes two parts where you see a sign to Glacier Pass. This will take you to Glacier Lake if you choose. The trail climbs 2.7 miles and gains 1100 feet through Glacier Pass and then down a short distance to Glacier Lake. From Glacier Lake you can continue the loop back to your car at the Wallowa Lake Trailhead, but it is a 12 mile hike which you can break up by either staying at Frazier Lake or Six Mile Meadow.

We decided that after visiting Moccasin Lake for a few hours and enjoying the scenery, we would hike back the 3.3 miles to Horseshoe Lake where we saw that our original campsite close to the lake was still available. We spent the night and then woke up at 6:00 AM to hike the 9.1 miles back to our car at the Wallowa Lake Trailhead. I believe the 9.1 miles back took about 5 hours including a break for a quick lunch.

I would say that during the time we went, the trails were in rougher shape that in the previous time I backpacked in the area. Due to the late snowmelt things just opened up a few weeks ago. There are about 20-25 large trees which have fallen across the trails that you need to maneuver over, under, or around and that does add to the toll after a while. There was also what appears to be a landslide along the way to Six Mile Meadow with quite a bit of debris and logs to maneuver around, however it looks like the Forest Service was up there with chainsaws to clear the way. The trail itself is very rocky but it is also clear and we had no trouble finding our way. There are hardly any signs letting you know which trail you are on, or where one junction leads to another; it is really up to you and a good map to know where to go.  Also, I refer to trail numbers such as #1820, #1810 etc, however, I do not remember seeing any of the trials numbered or marked in any manner while hiking. We just had a map from a hiking book and did not have trouble figuring out which trails to take or where to head; so once again, we did not have trouble finding our way and we felt confident in where we were headed.

We didn’t think it was too crowded when we were up there. There were maybe 5 people camping at Horseshoe Lake and I would say that the whole time we were on trail we passed maybe just a dozen people at most. Certainly there are times when there are more hikers and campers, and times when there are fewer, but regardless, the Eagle Cap Wilderness is a vast and expansive place and nobody should have trouble finding solitude. In my opinion, there is nowhere else in Oregon that has this level of pristine and majestic beauty. Everywhere you look there is an 8500 foot peak, or an alpine lake. It is simply an amazing place to experience, and Oregonians are fortunate to have it in our state. Although, for Portlanders, it is a grueling 6-hour drive to get to the trailhead, not to mention the countless hours on foot. Yet it is the work and the effort to get to the destination that makes this place special and unique. Any of the hiking trails in the Eagle Cap Wilderness would be considered a top Oregon hiking destination as they all either lead to a glorious alpine lake or up a majestic peak.

To Get There:

From Portland, Drive on Interstate 84 to La Grande exit 261. Take Highway 82 and follow the Wallowa Lake signs through Enterprise and Joseph. While on Highway 82 you reach Wallowa Lake and stay on this road until you reach the end of the road with the Wallowa Lake Trailhead on your left for a total of 335 miles. There is a picnic spot and public restrooms in the parking area. A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park. At the trailhead there is a self-registration box for your camping trip, which is free.

There are countless regulations for the Eagle Cap Wilderness to protect its fragile beauty so please check with the US Forest Service for current regulations and also check on trail conditions and current issues that you need to be aware of for a safe trip.

Yesterday I visited Fairy Falls in Oregon’s Columbia Gorge to take pictures.  The hike to Fairy Falls starts at the Wahkeena Falls Trailhead.   Wahkeena Falls is a destination of its very own to take pictures and for the majority of visitors, Wahkeena is the main attraction and can be literally photographed just a few feet from the parking lot.   As Wahkeena Falls is certainly a spectacular waterfall in size and volume, I believe that Fairy Falls is the more photogenic of the two and so I had planned to hike the short 1 mile up to Fairy Falls.  Also, shouldn’t you work just a little harder to get a good shot?  

The hike is a fairly short 2 miles round trip.  However, the hike should be considered moderate as it does gain steeply 970 feet in just a mile.  The trail is well maintained with approximately 3/4 of the trail paved.  The last stretch is slightly rocky and steep.   The trail is certainly crowded with visitors passing every couple of minutes at least on this weekend I visited.   Once you reach Fairy Falls there is an optional loop hike you can take to reach Multnomah Falls which is 5.4 miles and takes you back to your car.  Accounting for probably many of the hikers on the trail is that you can also reach Larch Mountain, Devil’s Rest, and Angel’s Rest by connecting to various trails intertwined in the area.  So this trail leads to a popular waterfall and also many other hikes and destinations in the Gorge area.   

The hike to Fairy Falls starts towards the right of the trailhead (west) and after 0.4 miles you reach the top and main view of Wahkeena Falls.  Going further, and after approximately a dozen switchbacks, you reach a junction where if you turn right you can hike approximately 200 feet to Lemmon’s Viewpoint for a spectacular view of Columbia Gorge, or just turn left at the junction and head up to Fairy Falls.  Along the way, the trail parallels Wahkeena Creek and plenty of photo opportunities exist.  You can scramble just a few feet down to the creek and take pictures when you find something that captures your eye.

Fairy Falls is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Oregon as I see its unique image quite frequently online as well as it being noted for its beauty in many guide books.  Fairy Falls is fed by a small branch of Wahkeena Creek and is a rather short fall of 20 feet and just one drop.  However, what distinguishes Fairy Falls from others in the area is its spectacular fan shape.  Due to its low volume of water this falls creates beautiful whispers of water which, with a slow shutter speed enhanced by a polarizer and neutral density filter, offer the photographer a top spot to take shots.   Also what makes this falls a good one to photograph is that you can get close up to the falls without the risk of spray or mist fogging up your lens.

As usual, early morning and a cloudy or rainy day to photograph is mandatory.   At approximately 11:00 AM the sun did rise above the falls and curtailed the photo opportunities.

However, I did head back down the trail and took pictures of Wahkeena Creek as the dense tree cover kept down the light.

This was a highly pleasurable trip as the short yet moderate hike was good exercise, the scenery was spectacular and the photography opportunities were endless.

To Get There:

Wahkeena Trailhead from Portland can be reached by driving east on I-84 and taking the Bridal Veil exit (Exit 28).  Follow the Historic Highway 2.4 miles to the Wahkeena Trailhead.  There is also a small campground and picnic area at the trailhead with restrooms and picnic tables.  There is no fee to visit the area.

This weekend I visited Smith Rock State Park in central Oregon’s high dessert.  Located in Terrebonne, Oregon, outside of Redmond, Smith Rock is widely considered a rock climbing mecca with over 500,000 annual visitors.  Smith Rock’s most famous feature is “Monkey Face” a 350 tall natural rock sculpture climbed by thousands which looks like a monkey’s face.

According to Oregon State Parks, the dramatic appearance of Smith Rock is due to major volcanic activity millions of years ago.  After a period of localized eruptions, lava flows entered the canyon and crowded the ancestral river into the flanks of the main volcanic structure.  Forced to establish a new channel, the Crooked River eventually eroded the interior of the volcanic vent.  The multicolored formations in Smith Rock State Park are composed of rock known as “welded tuff” -volcanic ash erupted under conditions of extreme heat and pressure.   

Not just a destination for rock climbers, the park also offers miles of hiking and mountain biking trails.  Winding around the park is the Crooked River and the wildlife is abundant.  On this trip I saw mule deer, rabbits, ducks, Canada geese, hawks, and a baby rattlesnake.

There is a loop hike around the park which is considered a moderate hike at 3.6 miles and approximatly 900 feet gain in elevation.  Although considered moderate, roughly 700 of that foot gain is just 0.5 miles up the Misery Ridge Trail and then another 0.50 miles going down 700 feet.  So it is certainly a nice elevation gain that is packed into a short distance, and therefore, a little tougher than expected.  I recommend doing the loop counterclockwise for comfort and better views.  Being Central Oregon’s high dessert, temperatures surpass 100 degrees in the summer months.  The temperature was a baking 85 degrees on the day of my trip.   

To get there:

Drive Highway 97 to Terrebonne which is 6 miles north of Redmond, Oregon.  It is easy to follow the “Smith Rock” signs where you turn east for 3.3 miles of zigzagging paved roads to the various parking areas.  There is a $3 per car fee, restrooms and water are available.

I recently visited Wahclella Falls in the Columbia Gorge to take photographs.  Wahclella Falls is located near the Bonneville Dam and is by far one of the prettiest waterfalls in the Gorge area.  The falls is fed by Tanner Creek with an upper drop of 290 feet and the second tier dropping into a 60 foot horsetail at the pool below. The Mazama mountaineering club named the falls “Wahclella” in 1915 after the nearby Native American village.

Quite a bit of volume pours out of this waterfall and the relentless spray can be difficult to manage when photographing.  An overcast day for photographing this waterfall is essential.  I would also recommend an early morning start as the sun rose above the falls roughly at noon during the time of the year I visited and the photo opportunities dramatically decreased once that happened.  There are plenty of great shots you take along Tanner Creek and I would recommend you do not overlook this creek while on you way to the main falls.  

To Get There:

The Wahclella Trailhead can be easily found by taking Interstate 84 off of the Bonneville Dam Exit (Exit 40).  After taking a right off the exit, drive approximately a mile until you reach the Wahclella Trailhead.  The trail is well maintained and an easy hike of nearly 1 mile with just a 300 foot elevation gain.   Accessible to nearly everyone; it would make a great family hike.